Photo: Shutterstock The Chinese government appears to have hit the brakes on the overseas shopping spree of Shandong Ruyi . The Chinese conglomerate has recently demonstrated its ambition to become something of China’s LVMH Group, following its high-profile acquisitions of luxury fashion brands including Bally and SMCP (which owns Maje, Sandro, and Claudie Pierlot). Its next target was to be Bagir Group. Founded in 1961, Bagir is an Israeli clothing manufacturing company that supplies garments to retailers including high-end players like Brooks Brothers and fast fashion labels such as H&M. On December 31, Bagir released an official statement stating that the Chinese firm failed to live up to its promise to inject $16.5 million into the company before the end of 2018. The cash was to be in exchange for around 54 percent of Bagir’s enlarged share capital. The reason for the delay is that “it is taking more time than first envisaged for Shandong Ruyi to receive Chinese Government approval” to complete the deal, according to Bagir. As a result, a new unconditional completion date for the transaction was set for May 30, 2019, by which time Shandong Ruyi will need to pay the remaining $13.2 million in cash. No explanation was given for the Chinese government’s failure to approve the deal by the deadline. The deal was first announced back in November 2017. Under its terms, Shandong Ruyi’s investment will be allocated to fund the expansion of production in Ethiopia and enable Bagir to score more apparel contracts from large international retailers. Eran Itzhak, CEO of Bagir Group, told the British fashion media outlet FashionUnited that “both companies are committed to making this partnership work.” He also said Shandong Ruyi remains confident about the completion of the transaction and the new completion date will provide ample time for all parties. Currently, the company mainly manufactures in African and Southeast Asian nations like Ethiopia, Egypt, and Vietnam. It markets to two main Western countries – the United Kingdom and the United States, according to the company’s website. The acquisition by Shandong Ruyi is also likely to help Bagir Group expand into China, which is, by far, the fastest-growing fashion and luxury market across the globe. During the New York Times International Luxury Conference in early November, Ruyi’s President Qiu Yafu publicly called for fashion insiders sitting in the audience to hook him up with potential buying opportunities. However, the Bagir case showed regardless of how passionate Qiu is about expanding his luxury and fashion empire, the uncertainties of the Chinese government’s overseas investment policy can easily turn his plans around — at least stall them. Jing Daily reached out to Shandong Ruyi for comments but failed to hear back as of this publication.
1 of 6Rep.-elect Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, a freshman Democrat representing New York’s 14th Congressional District, takes a selfie with Rep. Ann McLane Kuster, D-N.H., and Rep. Barbara Lee (D-Oakland) on the first day of the 116th Congress with Democrats holding the majority, at the Capitol in Washington, Thursday, Jan. 3, 2019.Photo: J. Scott Applewhite / Associated Press When the 116th United States Congress was sworn in Thursday morning in Washington, D.C., it was one of the most diverse, and the most female ever. In addition to a historic 102 women representatives, there was expanded ethnic and religious representation, including the first two Muslim women and the first Native American woman in congressional history. Freshman representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez also became the youngest female member of congress ever at age 29. As has become ever-more prevalent in politics — especially for women — the clothes some of the buzziest new members of Congress wore were more than fashion statements. They communicated much about the new representatives’ personal stories, identities and perhaps even their politics. Ocasio-Cortez, whose Instagram account is one of the most engaged of the new members, wore a white pantsuit that recalled several other female lawmakers and their homages to both the Facebook group Pantsuit Nation and Hillary Clinton’s signature pantsuits on the presidential campaign trail, but also the American Suffragettes, who wore white in their marches for women’s right to vote. Ocasio-Cortez was photographed taking a selfie with returning Rep. Barbara Lee, who wore a jacket made from traditional African kente cloth. Kente cloths were also worn by members of the Congressional Black Caucus at the 2018 State of the Union address in protest of disparaging comments President Trump made about African countries. Rep. Ilhan Omar is one of two new Muslim women in congress, a major first for the House. Omar is also the first Somali American member of Congress and was the first woman to wear a traditional Muslim hijab head covering in Congress, for which she pushed to change the 181-year-old rule that banned hats and other head coverings in the House. Omar’s fellow Muslim colleague, Rep. Rashida Tlaib, is the first Palestinian American women in Congress. She wore a traditional Palestinian thobe garment, causing the hashtag #TweetYourThob to trend on Twitter and Instagram. Rep. Deb Haaland, who is the first Native American woman to hold a seat in the House, wore a traditional pueblo dress, as did her mother. For her return to power , Nancy Pelosi wore a dress variously described as both “hot pink” and “fuchsia” to reclaim her role as Speaker of the House, making her the most powerful women in the United States government. While the red Max Mara coat and sunglasses Pelosi wore exiting a meeting at the White House with President Trump in December became a popular subject for internet memes and social media , this time, the Twitterverse was outraged when the New York Times tweeted about her “hot pink dress.” (The Times apologized for the “poorly framed” tweet and deleted it .) In 2019, a dress, a thobe or a hijab are more than just pieces of clothing. They are a method of communication — a way that politicians are using optics to tell their stories and convey their messages. As such, thoughtful discussion and decoding of fashion are a necessary part of reporting. Please tell social media to hold their outrage for the real perpetrators of sexism. Tony Bravo is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Changamire Festival Awards from MARCUS MUSHONGA in Harare, Zimbabwe HARARE, (CAJ News) – YOUTH excelling in Zimbabwe’s music industry will be rewarded at the end of the month during a Yung Parker Kwinika rapidly growing musical festival. The wards will be held under the aegis of the Changamire Festival Awards, set for January 30 in the capital, Harare. Changamire Festival Awards endorse upcoming local artists and those that in the Diaspora. The event set for the month end, which will be third edition, was launched in 2016 with ten categories at stake but has now grown with whirlwind speed to acknowledge 30 categories. There were 17 categories last year. “This makes Changamire Festival Awards the biggest award ceremony in Zimbabwe,” said festival and awards director, Jackson “Zimboy” Muchechetere. Nominated artists are from Harare, which dominates the list, and Bulawayo, Gweru, Chinhoyi, Masvingo and Mutare. South African based artists comprise gTBeats, Dj Rhymie, Xclusive Music, Blaq Home Bhoiz, Tricky J, Future Levi, Teekay Tha 1st, Trigga Da Infa, Crooger, Mlue Jay, Abra Simmz, Kamu Phiri and Dj Hustle. Nominees outside Africa include China-based technology engineering student, Parker “Yung Parker” Kwinika and United Kingdom duo of Norman Mashate and Big D. Tatenda “Take 5” Jenami will receive the Honorary Award for contributions to urban hip hop culture. Full list below: BEST MALE T Gonz Coco WeAfrica Stunner Crooger Asaph (Bulawayo) Briss Mbada BEST FEMALE Annastancia Yona (Chinhoyi) Kikky Badass Sachaa Blaq Diva Quin (Bulawayo) Natasha Muz Slinx BEST NEWCOMER Fetty Swazy (Gweru) Mr Lit (Bulawayo) K Dizzy (Gweru MSU) Rich Nusty Swagger Tonic Yung Parker (China) SONG OF THE YEAR Kamilia – Coco WeAfrica ft Jah Signal Mambo – Asaph (Bulawayo) Handisi Tsaga – Natasha Muz Ndofira Mugame – Briss Mbada Muteuro – Crooger Kwese – Stunner BEST ALBUM Shumba Inoruma – Crooger Follow Me E.P – Coco WeAfrica Chocolate City E.P – Beav City Mambokadzi – Kikky Badass Blessings – Dj Steers (Gweru) Future Too Bright – Fucci BEST PRODUCER Jamal & Leekay gTBeats (Joburg) Rayobeats Quazor Fun F Silolamnkoto (Bulawayo) BEST COLLABORATION Boiz DzeTonaz* – Kikky Badass ft Jnr Brown , Shuver,Marcus Mafia Mambo – Asaph ft Tha Dawgg & Fish F Swagg (Bulawayo) Talking – Quazor ft AB Crazy ,Tonic ,Cayge & GZE Harare Hucci – Crooger ft Briss Mbada Kamilia – Coco WeAfrica ft Jah Signal Crown Yangu – Blaq Diva Quin ft Scripmulla (Bulawayo) CHANGAMIRE BIGGEST BOSSES Power Circle – Boss Tumelo,Anesu ,StarBoy,Boi Breezy ,Guzh Ciroc Boyz – Dean & Lincon Young Games Ent – Bj & T.L.B Tripple Life – G5 ,Chatunga,Robert Jnr ,Young Chris ,Leeroy ,Muvhimi Team Big Family* – Boss Chenge Norman Mashate (U.K) Big D ( UK) BEST DEEJAY Dj Joey lion Harmony Sounds (Dj Khago & Dj Thirst) Takie Da Bigman (Chinhoyi) Dj Rhymie (Capetown SA) Dj Mangee (Mutare) The Doc (Gweru MSU) HIP HOP PERSONALITY OF THE YEAR Stunner gTBeats Kikky Badass Coco WeAfrica Sachaa Crooger BEST DANCE Magnetic Force Twins Lissa Tanaka Dboi Mash Tendai Guzha Basil Real Flex BEST MODEL AND OR VIXEN Zandile Belinda Skylaeh Lyndy Anita Demmie BEST HIP HOP VERSE Briss Mbada – Harare Hucci Verse 2 Jnr Brown – Boyz Dzetonaz last verse T Gonz – Misi Haifanani First Verse Queen Slinx – Hold It first Verse Asaph – Hate to say first verse (Bulawayo) Verse’Tyle – Sauce first verse BEST HIP HOP CHORUS Ndofira Mugame – Briss Mbada Mambo – Tha Dawgg (Bulawayo) Kamilia – Coco WeAfrica Sauce – Verse’Tyle Pull up ,Show Up ,Turn Up – King Bill (Bulawayo) Handisi Tsaga – Natasha Muz BEST ONLINE MEDIA Insider Magazine – CTO Banks (Gweru) ZimCelebs – Lewis Eyes of 263 – Tusso My Harare Tv – Wevey Zimtainment – Tyga Sparta 3 Men on The Boat – Larry Kwirirayi BEST PERFORMANCE Revenok Thundaz & Sachaa Jnr Brown Ti Gonzi Natasha Muz Trey XL & Nyasha Timbe Yung Parker (China) BEST HIP HOP GROUP / DUO Blaq Home Bhoiz (Capetown SA) GrindCity ,GrindTime Team Tokless (Gweru) Xclusive Music (Joburg SA) Roman Rap Studios Revenok Thundaz & Sachaa BEST ALTERNATIVE Future Levi (Joburg SA) Coco WeAfrica Ba Shupi Ninja Kid Tricky J (Joburg SA) Mr Clington BEST BRAND SUPPORTING HIP HOP Tecno Mobile – Mr 4 AfroWave – Big D (U.K) Impala Car Rental – Dondo Team Big Family – Boss Chenge Team Legacy – Prezzo Culture Create – Vanilla BEST DIASPORA Teekay Tha 1st (Joburg SA) Trigga Da Infa (Joburg SA) Crooger (Joburg SA) Yung Parker (China) gTBeats (Joburg SA) Mlue Jay (Joburg SA) BEST HIP HOP BRAND / LABEL Chasers Unruly Livet Brooke AfroWave (U.K) Hipu Hopu Yekughetto Tripple Life Grind City ,GrindTime BEST CHANGAMIRE CO HOST Yahya GoodVibes Abra Simmz (Alicats SA) Mc Tatts Kamu Phiri (Hydro Sandton SA) Lynn Chi Dj Hustle (Alicats SA) BEST VIDEO Kwese – Stunner Hennesy – Crooger ft Diamond Boyz Panado – Raydizz ft Jnr Brown ,Poptain & Simba Tags Boiz DzeTonaz – Kikky Badass ft Jnr Brown ,Shuver & Marcus Mafia Get Set – Tricky J ft Lady Bee Kamilia – Coco WeAfrica ft Jah Signal MOST RELEVANT HIP HOP STUDIO Young Games Ent – Quazor C.M.R – Larynx (Bulawayo) No Limits – Jamal & Leekay Mulanation – Scripmulla Winners Circle – gTBeats & Tricky J Kenako – Boss Gwaze BEST HIP HOP HUSTLE Prince Albert – Glamma Awards (Gweru) Terry Ayo – Cash Deals (Chinhoyi) Ric Chasers – Chasers Clothing Keith – Shoka Leisure Prezzo – Team Legacy Jamal – No Limits BEST LYRICIST Trey XL Crooger Jnr Brown Asaph (Bulawayo) Ti Gonzi Yung Parker (China) BEST FASHION DESIGNER / ORIGINATOR Ngoni Motsi – African Print Robet Jnr – XGX Ric Chasers – Chasers Luda – Unruly Livet Brooke King Casheyz – Royal Blood Fucci – Grind City ,GrindTime clothing BEST UNDERGROUND Verse’Tyle J.D & Ayatollah Metamophic (Bulawayo) Tip Tos Mr 4 Tiddy (Chinhoyi) KYD M.B.J Hyper (Gweru MSU) Dave The H Town Mitch PEOPLE’S CHOICE Beav City Asaph (Bulawayo) Briss Mbada Crooger T Gonz Kikky Badass Stunner Natasha Muz Fucci Coco WeAfrica – CAJ News Short URL : http://cajnewsafrica.com/?p=29233
Forex markets were knocked out of kilter by Apple’s profit warning FTSE 100 finished in the drink on Thursday having been up marginally earlier as new year worries about the state of the global economy persist and Wall Stret shares floundered. The UK blue-chip benchmark finished around 41 points lower at 6,692, while the FTSE 250 closed down over 147 points at 17,438. Big cap miners were among some of the biggest laggards. Retailer Next (LON:NEXT) was top riser on Footsie, adding over 14% to 4,350p. It came as the clothing company lowered the full-year profit guidance, but not as badly as expected. On Wall Street, the Dow Jones Industrial Average is down over 429 points at the time of writing, while the tech heavy Nasdaq index is off nearly 123 points. The German DAX lost 163 points and the French CAC 40 lost nearly 78. David Madden, market analyst at CMC Markets, noted: "Stock markets in Europe continue to be volatile. "The morning session saw a large move to the downside, but we have seen some markets recover. Late last night, Apple reduced their first-quarter revenue forecast due to weaker sales in China. "In the early hours of Wednesday morning, China posted disappointing manufacturing figures, so for the past two sessions investors have been worried about a slowdown in the Chinese economy." 3.45pm: FTSE 100 hangs on in there The top-shares index was clinging on to meagre gains towards the end of the trading session. The FTSE 100 was up 10 at 6,744, helped in part by sterling’s weakness. The mid-cap FTSE 250, which tends to have a lower proportion of foreign currency earners, was down 39 at 17,548. FTSE 250 constituent Wizz Air PLC ( LON:WIZZ ) defied the trend, rising 1.3% to 2,788p after revealing a 22.7% jump in passenger numbers in December, while the load factor rose to 88.8% from 87.5%. 2.45pm: Retailers drive – well, chivvy – the Footsie forward The Footsie has found forward gear and somewhat unusually, retailers are leading the advance. The FTSE 100 was up 4 at 6,738, despite US indices opening sharply lower after Apple ’s profit warning after the bell last night. Nobody could have seen this coming: Nov 21: Largest Apple Supplier Planning Billions In Cost Cuts On iPhone Woes Nov 19: Apple Slashes iPhone Production, Unleashing Supplier Turmoil Nov.13: Apple Sells 15 Million Fewer iPhones On Weaker Chinese Demand — zerohedge (@zerohedge) January 3, 2019 The Dow Jones and the tech-heavy NASDAQ Composite were both down 1.5%, while the S&P 500 was down 1.1% (27.5 points) at 2,481.4. Back in Blighty, the top four performers on the Footsie were all retailers, with Next PLC ( LON:NXT ) top dog, up 5.9% at 4,422p, after its Christmas period trading update. In close pursuit were supermarket chain, Tesco PLC ( LON:TSCO ), up 3.8%; Primark owner, Associated British Foods plc ( LON:ABF ), up 2.3%; and DIY retailer, Kingfisher PLC ( LON:KGF ), up 2.0%. “Most investors would not expect to see a 6% rise in the share price of a firm after it has just forecast a fourth consecutive drop in annual profits, but that is what they are getting with Next today,” said Russ Mould, AJ Bell ’s investment director. “Shareholders are shrugging off guidance from the retailer’s boss, Lord Simon Wolfson, that profits will drop very slightly in the years to January 2019 and January 2020, to £723 million and then £715 million, from the £726 million made in 2018. “They are doing so because Next has provided no nasty surprises regarding Christmas trading, despite the downbeat news flow which has coloured so much of the commentary issues on the festive season so far (notably HMV’s return to administration, weak foot fall numbers on the High Street and the often alarming level of discounting visible in shop windows),” Mould added. Housebuilders shrugged off a report analysing Land Registry data that suggested there was a 2.3% drop in the number of transactions completed in England and Wales in 2018. Among the 374 local authority areas, only 133 have seen an increase in the number of homes sold, according to modular smart homes provider, Project Etopia. That analysis cut little ice with investors who chased up the price of Barratt Developments PLC ( LON:BDEV ), Taylor Wimpey PLC ( LON:TW. ) and Persimmon PLC ( LON:PSN ) by around 2%. 12.30pm: Footsie back above 6,700 on see-saw day The FTSE 100 moved back above 6,700, despite expectations of US markets falling out of bed after yesterday evening’s profit warning from Apple . The FTSE 100 was down 17 at 6,717, with Burberry and Evraz still the weakest blue-chip performers on concerns that Chinese economic growth is slowing down. “Tech giant Apple sent alarm bells ringing last night after it cautioned the market that sales figures would disappoint. It is activity both at home and across the Pacific in China that is biting, and the implications of this saw US index futures plummet shortly after the market closed,” reported James Hughes at Axi Trader. “With Democrats set to assume a majority in Congress today, the political situation in the US seems unlikely to offer much relief to investors either; however, a proposal to reopen a number of divisions of the government – which has been closed for almost two weeks following budget deadlock – may be sufficient to provide at least a modest degree of support for stocks, assuming it can succeed,” Hughes added. Axi Trader said it is calling the Dow Jones to open 346 points lower at 23,000 and the S&P 500 38 points softer at 2,472. Apple ’s profit warning has put the US dollar into a spin while sterling has also taken a knock from underwhelming data on construction activity in December. All of the above may well be music to the ears of Alpha FX Group PLC ( LON:AFX ), which provides foreign exchange services to the corporate and institutional market. Alpha FX’s shares were up 5.3% at 595p after an upbeat trading statement in which it revealed that earnings for 2018 should be ahead of current market expectations. Vectura Group PLC ( LON:VEC ), up 13.3% at 80.2p, was another small cap that cheered the market with a trading update. The drug delivery device maker expects revenue to be in line with current market consensus expectations and underlying earnings (EBITDA) to be materially above them. 11.15am: Construction PMI fails to excite The Footsie traded sideways after some lacklustre data from the construction sector. The FTSE 100 was down 24 at 6,711. The construction purchasing managers’ index (PMI) fell to a three-month low of 52.6 in December after climbing to a four-month high of 53.4 in November from 53.2 in October and a six-month low of 52.1 in September. Economists had predicted a December reading of 52.6. A level of 50.0 indicates flat activity. “The fourth quarter average of 53.1 was modestly below the third-quarter average of 53.6, when hard data from the Office for National Statistics (ONS) shows construction output expanded 2.3% quarter-on-quarter. Construction activity clearly benefited in the second and third quarters from making up some of the activity lost in the first quarter to the severe weather, but help from that source has probably now come to an end," suggested Howard Archer, the chief economic advisor to the EY ITEM Club. “Construction activity in December was primarily held back by weaker commercial activity which was at a seven-month low. House building growth also dipped. This outweighed civil engineering activity picking up to a 19-month high,” he added. 10.45am: Chinese economy concerns drag down Evraz and Burberry The Footsie’s attempted rally quickly ran out of steam, with investors worried over how Apple ’s profit warning will affect sentiment in the US. The FTSE 100 was down 32 at 6,702. “Stocks in Europe are lower this morning after Apple lowered its first-quarter revenue guidance last night,” noted David Madden at CMC Markets. “The tech company warned that sales in China are slowing, and that coincided with the recent fears that China’s economy is cooling. The announcement from Apple triggered a decline in US index futures, and it hurt Asian equity markets too. In recent months there have been concerns that global growth is under threat, and the report from Apple adds weight to that argument,” Madden said. "The phenomenal smart phone era, a period that made Apple the world’s richest company, is winding down. That isn’t news. It’s just happening more quickly than Apple had anticipated." For more analysis from @DaveLeeBBC on Apple, take a look at our story https://t.co/ykbeYBvFaa pic.twitter.com/Sq8xpSeneH — BBC Business (@BBCBusiness) January 3, 2019 The UK has no counterparts to Apple but it has plenty of companies that are exposed to the Chinese economy, and that includes steel maker Evraz plc ( LON:EVR ), down 4.8%, and the luxury goods maker Burberry PLC ( LON:BRBY ), down 4.7%. #Apple to rebound in 2020. 5G-capable iPhone to help break lengthening smartphone replacement cycle, but this will give Apple only a brief respite. 10 years on, the iPhone needs a new form factor and a new reason for customers to buy. #FitchSolutions View. pic.twitter.com/IS1ZMcZJrE — Andrew Kitson (@kitsonbmi) January 3, 2019 Elsewhere among the Footsie losers, platinum refiner Johnson Matthey PLC ( LON:JMAT ) was down 53p to 2,670p after Deutsche Bank to 3,700p from 4,500p. In other broker action, Liberum responded to Next’s trading update by upgrading the stock to ‘buy’ from ‘hold’, with a 6,100p target price, while UBS stuck with its ‘buy’ rating but cut its price target to 6,000p from 6,600p. 9.45am: Blue-chip index rallies The Footsie was beginning to right itself after falling out of bed at the outset. The FTSE 100 was down 13 at 6,722, having fallen as low as 6,685 at one point. Fashion firm Next PLC ( LON:NXT ), up 3%, was leading the fightback after a better-than-expected trading update that also prompted buying interest in Primark owner Associated British Foods plc ( LON:ABF ), up 1.4%, and Marks and Spencer Group Plc ( LON:MKS ), up 1.3%. Next PLC xmas trading is not too shabby despite all the doom and gloom around. Full price sales up 1.5% & its profit guidance for the FY only nudged down a touch from £727m to £723m because of higher online costs & higher sales of slightly lower margin gifts and beauty products — Deirdre Hipwell (@DeirdreHipwell) January 3, 2019 “Retail is currently about survival of the fittest and Next is certainly looking like one of the healthiest in its pack,” according to Russ Mould, the investment director at wealth management platform operator AJ Bell . “A decade ago, Next reporting a 9.2% drop in high-street sales would have been disastrous. Yet today no-one will be surprised by such a performance as it reflects a structural change in how we shop for goods. “The fact that Next has barely changed its earnings guidance despite high-street gloom is deemed a major success by investors, hence why its share price has shot up on the news,” he added. Independent retail analyst Nick Bubb was one of those who had been concerned that Next would cut its profit guidance. “Well, impressively, Next has broadly held its guidance, at £723mln, with sales actually 1% up, thanks to a strong late run (which wasn’t confined to just the last week, despite the widespread pre-Christmas discounting going on elsewhere),” Bubb reported. “Interestingly, Next run the period from Oct 28th to Dec 29th, rather than the usual Christmas Eve cut-off, but they haven’t included Sale trading last week, so it is a LFL [like-for-like] comparison, as the focus is on full-price sales. Needless to say, the outcome is driven by Online trading, with sales up 15.2%, with Next Retail down 9.2% (or c10% down LFL), but both outcomes are better than we’d feared,” Bubb said. “As for the outlook for the new year, Next have pencilled in broadly similar sales to H2/Christmas, despite all the Brexit uncertainty, which would mean 2019/20 PBT only down slightly to £715mln,” he added. Away from the large-caps, most of the excitement is happening in the mining sector, where Metals Exploration and Sunrise Resources are setting the pace. Metals Exploration Plc ( LON:MTL ) saw its share price more than double as it unveiled its new chief executive, Darren Bowden, who has 25 years of experience in the mining industry. Sunrise Resources Plc ( LON:SRES ) climbed 23% to 0.135p on the back of positive results from the testing of perlite (a form of volcanic glass) samples at its NewPerl project in Nevada. 8.45am: Footsie falls If Britain had a quoted tech sector – rather than a ragbag of minnows and the odd monster – the decline on the FTSE 100 may have been more precipitous after Apple sounded the earnings alarm overnight. Instead, it was more of a dip than the vertiginous drop we saw first thing Wednesday as the index of blue-chip shares shed 33 points in the first half hour to trade at 6,701.44. Eyes were on the risers’ column after Next ( LON:NXT ) survived Christmas almost unscathed, meaning its shares opened 6% higher. “Today’s update reopens the debate as to whether Next’s glass is half-full or half-empty,” said Richard Hunter, analyst at Interactive Investor. “There are certainly signs that the company is managing its affairs tightly, but with the outlook for the sector generally still mired in uncertainty, opinion remains divided and the market consensus of the shares as a hold is likely to remain in place for the time being.” Next’s performance, and that of department store chain John Lewis, allowed Marks & Spencer’s ( LON:MKS ) to breathe a sigh of relief as its stock edged up 2.7%. And what exactly is perlite? January 10 will reveal whether the early optimism has been well placed. Elsewhere on the Footsie, there appeared to be a modicum of caution around the fashion giant Burburry ( LON:BRBY ), which updates on January 23, as its shares fell 3% to lead the losers’ list. Dropping down to the tiddlers, backers of Sunrise Resources ( LON:SRES ) saw the value of the company rise 22% after it delivered positive results from the testing of perlite samples from new discovery areas of its NewPerl project in Nevada. Perlite is a form of volcanic glass that is mined and then heated in big ovens until it ‘pops’ into a round, white material that’s used in seed-starting and potting mixtures to lighten the soil and allow more air around the roots of plants. Now you know. Proactive news headlines: Sunrise Resources Plc ( LON:SRES ) has reported positive results from the testing of perlite samples from new discovery areas of its NewPerl project in Nevada. Mobile advertising group Taptica International Ltd ( LON:TAP ) has entered into preliminary discussions with an unnamed potential acquisition target. No further details were given in the brief statement but Taptica said it will make another announcement “in due course”. Physiomics Plc ( LON:PYC ) said it was excited to be striking up new relationships in the world of oncology after inking a strategic collaboration. It is joining a network of advisors brought together by Medicines Discovery Catapult (MDC), which is charged with supporting innovation in the drugs sector. Cyber-security firm Corero Network Security PLC ( LON:CNS ) expects to report a record final quarter and to roughly halve full-year losses. Anglo African Oil & Gas PLC ( LON:AAOG ) told investors that it has now reinstated production from the TLP-101 well at the Tilapia field, meanwhile operations on the new TLP-103 well continue. The company explained that TLP-101 had been producing around 30 barrels of oil per day before the TLP-103 programme got underway, but, production had to be paused due to the proximity of the gas flare to drilling apparatus. Bango plc ( LON:BGO ), the mobile commerce company, announced that on 1 January 2019 Nancy Cruickshank joined the board as an Independent non-executive director, to guide and support the expected rapid growth of Bango as it starts to exploit its data monetization technology and relationships. The group also confirmed that Carolyn Rand has now been appointed to the board as permanent chief financial officer, effective from 1 January 2019. Redx Pharma Plc ( LON:REDX ) announced that Lisa Anson, its chief executive officer and Dr Andrew Saunders, its chief medical officer will be presenting at Biotech Showcase in San Francisco, which runs from 7 – 9 January 2019. Redx’s presentation will take place at 3pm PST on Tuesday 8 January 2019 at the Hilton, Union Square in San Francisco, California, Track: Yosemite A (Ballroom Level). Asiamet Resources Limited ( LON:ARS ) said yesterday that Optiva Securities, holder of 3,475,652 broker warrants exercisable at C$0.05 until expiry on 23 December 2018 delivered notice of exercise on 18 December 2018 and the company has now received C$173,783 as a result of the exercise. 6.45am: Apple alert set to unsettle the FTSE 100 The FTSE 100 is expected to open lower this morning as the ripples from Apple’s ( NASDAQ:AAPL ) first quarter earnings warning spread from the US. Spread-betting firm IG expects the FTSE 100 to open around 43 points lower after closing up around 6 points yesterday at 6,734. In an update after close on Wall Street yesterday, the tech giant warned that its first quarter revenue would be weaker than expected, forecasting approximately US$84bn, down from earnings guidance announced back in November of between US$89bn and US$93bn. China was highlighted as a particular pain point, with Apple chief executive Tim Cook saying that revenue in the country accounts for “over 100 percent of our year-over-year worldwide revenue decline.” Cook added that the economic environment in China had been affected by rising trade tensions with the United States, with traffic to retail stores in China declining during the quarter. In the US session yesterday, a volatile session was essentially capped with small gains with the Dow Jones Industrial Average closing up 18 points at 23,346 while the S&P 500 was up 3 points at 2,510 and the Nasdaq was up 30 points at 6,665. Asian markets struggled today in the wake of the Apple update, with the Japanese Nikkei 225 down 62 points at 20,014 while Hong Kong’s Hang Seng was down 209 points at 24,922. On the currency markets, sterling was trading around 0.5% lower at US$1.254 against the dollar. Next to take lead with post-Christmas trading update Next PLC ( LON:NXT ) will be kicking off the post-Christmas deluge of retailer updates on Thursday following what has been a rough few months for the sector. Lee Wild, head of equity strategy, interactive investor, commented: “Already struggling to grow sales in the run-up to Christmas, a profit warning from ASOS plc ( LON:ASC ) has dealt a massive blow to both online and high street fashion retailers. “Next is not immune, already warning in September that the UK retail market remains volatile and is subject to ‘powerful structural and cyclical changes’.” He added: “Next shares have lost almost a quarter of their value since the end of November, and now look cheap assuming sales do keep growing. “Forecasts are for annual mid-single-digit profit growth over the next five years, which is hardly aggressive, but fear is that near-term headwinds could threaten full-year sales and profit guidance.” Significant announcements expected: Thursday January 3: Ex-dividends to clip 0.7 points off FTSE 100 index: Auto Trader PLC ( LON:AUTO ), British Land Company PLC ( LON:BLND ), Experian PLC ( LON:EXPN ) Economic data: UK construction PMI; US weekly jobless claims Sterling: US$1.254, down 0.47% Brent Crude: US$54.24 a barrel, down 1.24% Gold: US$1,289.6 an ounce, up 0.38% Bitcoin: US$3,846.9, up 1.37% City headlines: The Times: Apple shocked Wall Street last night with a sharp cut to its financial forecasts; its shares fell by 8%, knocking $60 billion off its value; the company blamed President Trump’s trade war with China for prompting a slump in iPhone sales The Daily Telegraph: Brexit stockpiling preparations delivered an unexpected boost to the manufacturing sector in December; the closely watched purchasing managers’ index scored 54.2, up from 53.6 in November Financial Times: Tesla’s shares plunged 6.8% on Wednesday after the company said it had delivered fewer new vehicles in the last quarter; the carmaker also unveiled plans to cut prices on vehicles in the US after tax credit reduction
Lisa Folawiyo’s bold collection being shown in New York. Getty Africa has influenced western fashion for as long as it has existed. Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Garcons and many others have been inspired by the continent’s history, people and culture. A multitude of African traditions have been used as a rich source of inspiration, punctuated by some particularly memorable misappropriations, from Christian Dior and Thierry Mugler to Louis Vuitton. Producers worldwide have capitalised on African symbolism to sell everything from cars to fashion. The difference now is the current outpouring of creative talents isn’t from the big western brands “inspired” by Africa, but instead from African designers making inroads into the western arts scene. The rise of African fashion In the past few years, there has been a steady outpouring of creative talent from across the continent from photographers, furniture designers and fine artists, to jewellery and fashion designers. The continent has a burgeoning homegrown creative industry showcasing the diversity and talent of the region. African fashion is riding a wave of creative output and recognition, gaining global press and an international clientele, this time with creative autonomy, after being ignored and copied for decades. It is riding a wave of hyper awareness of cultural appropriation and casual racial inappropriateness, which reached an all-time high in 2017. H&M’s “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle” hoodie and Prada’s Pradamalia blackface keychain are recent examples. The current wave of African artists is punctuated by creative inspiration that is simply not possible in the West. La Sape is properly known as les Societe des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elegantes, or the Society of Tastemakers and Elegant People. Born in the poverty of the Congo, Les Sapeurs consider themselves to be the best-dressed and best-behaved gentlemen on the planet. They devote almost their entire income to purchasing fine clothing and accessories, believing they improve the morale of their neighbourhoods by setting an example of couture and courtesy. Their adoption of the classic menswear suit symbolises a break with the country’s colonial past, when they were forced to wear Mao-style tunics. Sapologie today serves as both a political statement, as well as something close to a religion, inspiring creativity in all those fortunate enough to witness it. Digital resources Designers such as Xuly Bet paved the way in the early 1990s, infusing their fashion with their Malian heritage. Others such as Ozwald Boateng shook up the traditional bespoke menswear tailoring industry that the United Kingdom is famous for, by opening a store on hallowed Savile Row in 1995, offering exquisitely tailored men’s suits in eye-popping colours. The publication of Fashion Africa in 2011 helped popularise the new wave of African design. ‘Fashion Africa’ helped popularise a new wave of African fashion in 2011. The accompanying digital resource, the Africa Fashion Guide , is an information platform that helps create awareness of the full fashion and textile supply chain across Africa. The platform supports the creation of responsible fashion made in countries throughout the continent. It organises annual trips to meet manufacturers, artisans and other industry professionals, sharing relevant industry information and offering business consultancy to help grow businesses producing and sourcing locally. The designers to know Aboubakar Fofana is a world-renowned multidisciplinary artist, designer and master craftsman who works with textiles and natural dyes. He is known for reinvigorating and redefining West African indigo-dyeing techniques, with a focus on the preservation and reinterpretation of traditional textiles from the region. Fofana showcases his work around the world through workshops and exhibitions, and is in the process of developing a permaculture, with the intent of proliferating fermented indigo dyeing across Mali. Nigerian fashion designer Lisa Folawiyo is one of Africa’s most popular. She produces a chic, modern collection with a hint of tradition and lots of colour, and dresses celebrities including Lupita Nyong’o and Solange Knowles. She has had her collections shown on the runways of Lagos, Milan, New York and Paris. Folawiyo is known for featuring artisanal hand embellishments. She first made headlines by embellishing the local Ankara fabric and has built a brand based on the reinterpretation of tradition. A design by Dent de Man. Courtesy Dent de Man Dent de Man is a brash, colourful menswear brand that features classically tailored clothing infused with cutting-edge design. Named after a distinctive mountain close to the city of Man on the Ivory Coast, the collection blends sartorial elegance with traditional Javanese prints. Dent de Man’s unexpected textile combinations, use of vintage fabrics and ancient printing techniques sets his collection apart. The brand works closely with Dutch print textile manufacturer Vlisco, allowing him to access its rich print archive that spans more than 100 years. This is the power of Africa – the power to inspire, to revel in the pure joy of life and living – and the fashion world is far richer for it when it comes from the source rather than reinterpreted through western eyes. ____________________ Read more: Sass Brown: The environmental and human impact of your denim jeans UAE designers reveal how they are making their designs more eco-friendly Updated: January 3, 2019 06:50 PM
Sub-Saharan African clothing and footwear market is worth $ 31 billion US dollars. Growing creative ambition in African fashion trends is essential. The story behind Africa’s fashion crosses the complex designs of the continent’s culture, heritage, and her dress. The next big thing is to provide a solution to the potential of Africa to drive the future of Africa and slow economic growth due to rising youth unemployment and increased value of commodities. Scenario of African fashion industry Courtesy: premiumtimesng.com Sub-Saharan African clothing and footwear market is worth $ 31 billion US dollars. Growing creative ambition in African fashion trends is essential, but poor supply discipline, the lack of international partners and the challenges of inferior infrastructure will be resolved promptly. Cotton, textile and apparel manufacturers in 18 sub-Saharan African countries are backing a new initiative to boost confidence in Africa as a sourcing location and attract new buyers and investors to the region. Scopes for having investors in African fashion industry Effect of African Culture and Beauty on the global fashion scene, the number of non-selected and African descent models has increased significantly, running the runways for fashion’s biggest brands, which featured in leading fashion magazines and featured among most of the world’s land breaking advertising campaigns. In 2018, Amitoy Lagum of Uganda and Harith Paul of Tanzania, such as Harith Paul, will see the continual increase in African models of fashion. Although the African market for footwear industry is still young, the continent is heavily involved with raw materials, extraordinary talent and affordable labor, which is the perfect push to build an extraordinary footwear industry. Countries like Ethiopia, Ghana, Kenya, and Nigeria lead the revolutionary footprint of the continent. In 2015, Ethiopia has earned more than $ 30 million from the export of shoes, which has achieved ninth place in the leather products industry worldwide. And this is just the beginning. In 2018, we can expect to see further growth from Ethiopia and other African countries, the price of African footwear industry may be likely to rise to $ 1 billion in the next decade. Today, though very few universities across the continent are offering first or master’s degree in fashion, the perception of fashion on the continent is improving as a result of African fashion being increasingly accepted and adopted across the globe.Scenario of African fashion industryRecently South Africa, a country on the southernmost tip of the African continent is planning to develop a master plan for the growth of the apparel, textile, footwear, and leather retail value chain, targeting to create 60,000 jobs, according to Trade and Industry Minister Rob Davies. He said that his department is working with Justin Barnes, facilitator for the new automotive master plan till 2035, to come out with a similar plan. The plan may be announced early next year, according to a report in a South African newspaper. Thanks to the upward trend of Africa’s clothing exports, especially thanks to the Bangladeshi investors, there has been a threat to the second position in the world’s clothing business. Under the African Growth and Scope Act (AGOA), the United States enjoys duty-free and quota-free access for certain goods with clothing. African fashion industry present scenario And among the main reasons for growing garments exports from African countries is one of the impressive Bangladeshi garment makers to take advantage of responsibility under the African Growth and Opportunity Act, or AGOA. AGOA is a piece of legislation that was approved by the U.S. Congress in May 2000. The purpose of this legislation is to assist the economies of sub-Saharan Africa and to improve economic relations between the United States and the region. Source:Textile Today Keywords： clothing and footwear , African clothing and footwear
The evolution of African clothing is difficult to trace because of the lack of historical evidence. Although artifacts from Egyptian culture date back to before 3000 b.c.e., no similar evidence is available for the majority of the African continent until the mid-twentieth century. Sources from Arab culture refer to the people of northern Africa by the eighth century c.e., but much of early African clothing history has been pieced together from art, oral histories, and traditions that are continued by present-day tribal members. When Europeans began trading and later developed colonies in Africa starting in the thirteenth century c.e., more information about how Africans dressed was recorded and continues to this day. The spotty information available, combined with the huge number of different cultures living in Africa, however, provides only a very general history of the clothing trends on the continent. Clothing was not a necessity for warmth or protection throughout much of the African continent because of the consistently warm weather. Many people, especially men, did not wear any clothing at all and instead decorated their bodies with paint or scars. When Africans did wear clothing, evidence suggests that animal skins and bark cloth were the first materials used. It is unknown when these readily available materials were first utilized, but they were used to make simple aprons to cover the genitals or large robes to drape around the body. Later many cultures developed weaving techniques to produce beautiful cloth. Raffia, the fiber of a palm plant, and cotton were common materials used to weave fabric. At first cloth was woven by hand, and later looms (weaving devices) were created to make more complicated fabrics. Men and women worked together to produce fabric for clothing, with men weaving the fabric and women decorating it in many cultures. Perhaps the most well known fabrics were the intricately woven cotton or silk Kente cloth of Ghana ; the mud cloth of Mali , with its distinctive brown and beige patterns; and the tufted Kuba cloth of the Democratic Republic of the Congo . Other types of cloth were also woven by other groups; each culture using its distinctive cloth to create clothing. Some used their fabric to create elaborate wrapped clothing styles, similar to the toga worn by ancient Romans. Others cut and sewed their fabric into skirts, shirts, dresses, and loose trousers. Different versions of loose-fitting robes are worn in many different regions of Africa. In Nigeria and Senegal a robe called a boubou for men and a m’boubou for women is popular. Other similar robes include the agbada and riga in Nigeria, the gandoura or leppi in Cameroon , and the dansiki in West Africa. Styles in northern Africa reflect the strong influence Muslims have had on the cultures, especially the Berbers of Morocco and other Saharan desert countries. The clothing styles already discussed are considered traditional African dress, but there is a great deal we don’t know about them and other forms of African dress. We know nothing about the origins of these styles, for example, nor do we know the precise ways that they changed over time. It is almost certain, however, that African clothing styles, like the styles of all other long-enduring cultures, have evolved over time. In ancient times, when different African groups would meet and trade with each other, exotic items, such as shell beads in inland communities, would become prized status symbols and be incorporated into different tribal clothing styles. One prime example of how trade changed African clothing is the popularity of the tiny glass beads brought to Africa from Europe in the fifteenth century. Africans coveted the beads and soon created elaborate beaded skirts, capes, headdresses, and even shoes. The colors and patterns of the beadwork distinguished tribes from one another, and the styles of beaded clothing differentiated people by sex, age, and social status. These beaded items are now identified as traditional among many different groups in Africa. Further contact with Europeans introduced other Western items, namely Western clothing styles. Although these items were first combined with older African styles, by the twenty-first century it was not uncommon to see people in Africa wearing jeans, T-shirts, and tennis shoes, or other Western style outfits. FOR MORE INFORMATION Blauer, Ettagale. African Elegance. New York : Rizzoli, 1999. Giddings, V. L. "African American Dress in the 1960s." In African American Dress and Adornment: A Cultural Perspective, edited by B. M. Starke, L. O. Holloman, and B. K. Nordquist. Dubuque, IA: Kendall Hunt Publishing Company, 1990. Hoobler, Dorothy, and Thomas Hoobler. Vanity Rules: A History of American Fashion and Beauty. Brookfield, CT: Twenty-First Century Books, 2000. Kennett, Frances, and Caroline MacDonald-Haig. Ethnic Dress. New York : Facts on File, 1994. Agbada African Americans ‘ Dress During the Civil Rights Movement Animal Skins Aso Oke Cloth Bark Cloth Batik Cloth Berber Dress Boubou Cotton Kente Cloth Kuba Cloth Mud Cloth
This unique dress is made with a cotton Ankara fabric. Designed to give elegance and style fpr that special occassion. It measures 40 inches and modelled by 5. 7 inches tall person. Please note that it can be seen with other beautiful prints. Below is our size chart: UK4, US0-Bust30, waist22. 5, Hip32. 5 UK6, US2-Bust33,waist22. 5, Hip35. UK8, US4-Bust34, waist26. 5, Hip36. UK10, US6-Bust36, waist28. 5, Hip38. UK12, US8-Bust38, waist30. 5, Hip40. UK14, US-10-Bust40, waist32 5, Hip42. UK16, US-12-Bust42, waist34. 5, Hip44. UK18, US-14-Bust44, waist37. 5, Hip48. UK20, US-16-Bust47, waist39, Hip50. Uk22, US-18-Bust50, waist42, Hip53. UK24, US-20-Bust53, waist45, Hip56. UK26, US-22-Bust56, waist48, Hip59. Please check the measurement carefully before choosing your size chart, it will also include shoulder to shoulder, upper arm circumference-bust-waist-hips-dress length. Please note that you can also send across your measurement , if you are not comfortable with the above size chart. Feel free to make an etsy conversation with me. Thanks for visiting.
Hey @virgilabloh can I earn an internship? I have ideas! “ #virgilabloh @dapperdanharlem @fondationlv @LVMH @LouisVuitton #LouisVuitton #LV Special Thanks for Production 🧠Creative Direction: @magnusjuliano 💇🏾♂️Hair:Ciera Jackson 📷: @mystic_elena 🔬3D Printed Beads: @yateveo_sounds @sarahfrancishollis / @eatcrowstudiogram 📇Vinyl: @yep_its_mont A post shared by Magnus Juliano (@magnusjuliano) on Dec 31, 2018 at 9:02pm PST You don’t have to be particularly fashion-forward to recognise the Louis Vuitton logo. One aspiring designer and rapper, Magnus Juliano, has taken the signature design of the brand and turned it into something out of the ordinary; braid accessories. The 27-year-old graphic designer from Columbus, Ohio has used 3D printing to create the colourful look. And it’s not just about trendy hair accessories, he says, it’s about honouring African American roots. Special Thanks for Production 🧠Creative Direction: @magnusjuliano 💇🏾♂️Hair:Ciera Jackson 📷: @mystic_elena 🔬3D Printed Beads: @yateveo_sounds @sarahfrancishollis / @eatcrowstudiogram 📇Vinyl: @yep_its_mont Revealing the stylish LV monogram carefully crafted into his braids, Magnus posted the look on his Instagram, tagging Virgil Abloh, artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s men’s wear collection. He wrote: ‘Hey Virgil Abloh, can I earn an internship? I have ideas!’ The technicolour designs created by Magnus took a lot of time and effort as he spent six months 3D printing each design and putting it together. The best statement leggings to help you stand out at the gym The M&S January sale arrives with all the classic styles you need in 2019 Behold the first fashion trend of 2019: Giant backpacks ‘I failed in production a few times so I had to keep restarting again and again. It was discouraging and I almost walked away from it, but [fortunately] regrouped,’ he told Vogue . ‘African American roots are rich in hair jewellery and headdress — it’s our fabric. I chose [to pay tribute to] Louis Vuitton because of the impact [the brand has] had on art and design, but from the perspective of designers like Dapper Dan, who didn’t have access to [luxury brands], yet still made hip-hop couture using their likeness.’ 🙏🏾 @virgilabloh @dapperdanharlem @fondationlv @LVMH @LouisVuitton #LouisVuitton #LV Special Thanks for Production 🧠Creative Direction: @magnusjuliano 💇🏾♂️Hair:Ciera Jackson 📷: @mystic_elena 🔬3D Printed Beads: @yateveo_sounds @sarahfrancishollis / @eatcrowstudiogram 📇Vinyl: @yep_its_mont A post shared by Magnus Juliano (@magnusjuliano) on Jan 1, 2019 at 4:37pm PST Magnus used a 3D-printing company co-founded by his former university professor to create the ornaments. He also enlisted the help of a hairstylist to do do the braiding and fastening work. He tagged Louis Vuitton in the post to direct their attention to his work, which won over a lot of fans on Instagram. Many called the work ‘dope’ while one wrote: ‘You definitely deserve that internship.’ Others left him positive words of encouragement, saying: ‘Virgil would be a fool not to get in touch with you. But if that does happen, don’t stop and keep producing. You have so much talent and authenticity you cannot be ignored. And this can work for so many other brands.’ We’re excited to see whether the look catches on.
Traditional African crafts and the typically restrained Scandinavian colour palette informed the interiors of this members’ club in west London , which has been created by Cavendish Studios and Russell Sage Studios. The Conduit is set within an eight-storey building in London’s affluent Mayfair district, sharing the same street as upscale restaurant Sketch and a number of high-end fashion boutiques. Open to individuals from a variety of professional backgrounds, the members-only club caters to those interested in "tackling some of the most pressing challenges facing [society] today" by running an events programme focused on seven topics: climate change and sustainability, health and nutrition, justice, art and culture, education and skills, employment and economic opportunity, and equality. South London-based practice Feix&Merlin Architects carried out a subtle renovation of the building’s structure, maintaining its neoclassical facade and inserting two new lift shafts which can be used by the club’s staff to transport good and stock between floors. The interior of the 4,000 square-metre site, which formally served as an ancillary building for the nearby Westbury Hotel, has been overhauled by Cavendish Studios and Russell Sage Studios to "Scandinavian minimalism meets African craft". After developing a series of mood boards, both studios went about decking out the club’s communal spaces in neutral hues and subtly decor elements. "During our design process and approach to the project we developed a very artisanal approach. We then travelled to Africa and worked with NGOs and artisans who use craft as means of social ‘upliftment’," Cavendish Studios told Dezeen. Photograph by Steven Joyce In the sixth floor sitting room, where customers can work or relax, beige plaster walls have been paired with the building’s original diamond-patterned terracotta floors. Olive green sofas, sage-coloured rugs and cane armchairs have been used to dress the space, along with woven vases which line shelves on the wall. Photograph by Steven Joyce Huge arched doors lead through to a greenery-filled roof terrace, which is simply finished with pale grey seats and timber side tables. A number of potted succulents and tall leafy plants have also been placed at several points indoors. "There’s a strong emphasis on using interior planting to bring the space ‘alive’ while utilising the outdoor terraces to their full potential to create an oasis within the club," explained Russell Sage Studios. A more opulent material palette has been introduced in the basement, where a speakeasy-style bar has been created for members – the drinks counter is fronted by emerald-green tiles, while shiny gold brass has been used to form tables. Fringed pendant lamps also hang at the centre of the room’s vaulted ceiling booths, complemented by rich red velvet chairs. The recently-opened Soho House Mumbai members club has interiors that reference traditional Indian textiles – its guest suites feature lampshades made from vintage saris, while its cinema has walls upholstered in fabrics that were hand printed in Rajasthan. Photography is by Adam Scott unless stated otherwise. Project credits: Interior design: Cavendish Studios; Joel Bernstein and Rebecca Gaon, Russell Sage Studio Lighting designer: Xavio Architects: Feix&Merlin